Backpacking in the Canadian Rockies with a toddler (2017, part 1)

“It does not do to dwell on dreams and forget to live.” ― J.K. Rowling

Back in the summer of 2017 we spent 5 weeks of backpacking with Lotta in the Canadian Rockies. It was a hot and dry summer. On those 5 weeks, we only experienced 2 days of rain. Good for us, but not so for British Columbia‘s wild backcountry. It was the summer with a huge amount of wildfires in British Columbia. Hazy air caused by the cluster of wildfires has spread over the Rockies. Some days the mountain backdrop was invisible due to the haze, but we we’re never affected by smoke during our backpacking trips.

Lotta was 19 months old on this long backpacking trip. It was one year before her brother Bosse was born. She was carried in the Thule Sappling. It was the last trip on which we could do longer multi-day treks with distances covering over 20k per day. Since Lotta walks for herself, future trips would be much shorter…

Maligne Lake Viewpoint is a 12 kilometer moderately trafficked out and back trail located near Jasper, Alberta, Canada.

Maligne Lake Viewpoint is a 12 kilometer moderately trafficked out and back trail located near Jasper, Alberta, Canada. Jasper National Park

After some acclimatisation hikes near Jasper, we headed off on our first 5 day backpacking trek onto the Berglake Trail in Mount Robson Provincial Park. We spilt up our 60km-hike over 5 days so we’d have lots of time to enjoy the scenery and to go on day hikes from the different base camps. There are seven campgrounds along the trail, each with several tent pads. Each campground comes equipped with bear-proof food storage lockers, pit toilets and grey-water pits. You won’t find any showers or flush toilets, and there are no fires allowed. You’ll have to use a camp stove for cooking. Campground reservations for each season become available on October 1 of the prior year (for instance, on October 1, 2019 reservations opened up for the 2020 hiking season).To book your reservation on the Berg Lake Trail, click here.

The Berg Lake Trail is a world-renowned backcountry hiking trail. Gaining just under 800 metres in 23 kilometres, the trail traverses three biogeoclimatic zones in the Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.

The Berg Lake Trail is a world-renowned backcountry hiking trail. Gaining just under 800 metres in 23 kilometres, the trail traverses three biogeoclimatic zones in the Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.

The Berg Lake Trail winds through old-growth cedar/hemlock forest as it follows the Robson River to Kinney Lake.

The Berg Lake Trail winds through old-growth cedar/hemlock forest as it follows the Robson River to Kinney Lake. Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.

Crossing the suspension bridge near the Whitehorn campground in the Valley of a thousand falls.

Crossing the suspension bridge near the Whitehorn campground in the Valley of a thousand falls. Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.

Our first night at Whitehorn campground in the Valley of a thousand falls.

Our first night at Whitehorn campground in the Valley of a thousand falls. Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.

Emperor Falls

Emperor Falls. Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.

Higher up along Robson River.

Higher up along Robson River. Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.

We arrived safely at Berg Lake, over!

We arrived safely at Berg Lake, over! Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.

We arrived safely at Berg Lake, let's camp!

We arrived safely at Berg Lake, let’s camp! Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.

Robson Glacier, spilling off from the northeast flank of Mount Robson!

Robson Glacier, spilling off from the northeast flank of Mount Robson! Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.

Viewpoint above Toboggan Falls, high above Berg Lake and Mount Robson!

Viewpoint above Toboggan Falls, high above Berg Lake and Mount Robson! Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.

Robson Pass camp!

Robson Pass camp Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.

Robson Pass camp!

Robson Pass camp Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.

Berg Lake reflections!

Berg Lake reflections! Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.

Near Marmot campsite. Berg Lake.

Near Marmot campsite. Berg Lake. Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.

Playing in Kinney Lake.

Playing in Kinney Lake. Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.

Bed time.

Bed time. Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.

Kinney Lake in the morning light.

Kinney Lake in the morning light. Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.

There are many hiking and backpacking trips to pick from in the stunning Jasper National Park. The Tonquin Valley’s scenery is unrivalled. The trail takes you into one of Canada’s premiere alpine regions, a unique combination of barren peaks, ghostly ice and fertile lakes. The valley is popular for its stunning views of Amethyst Lake at the base of the Ramparts mountain range. It’s famous for its variety of wildlife, which includes grizzlies, black bears, and mountain caribou. It does also have a reputation for its muddiness and an abundance of mosquitoes, so be prepared for a bit of everything.

We hiked to the Wates-Gibson Hut and stayed over for 2 nights. Altough it was peak season in the mid of July we didn’t see any other tourist during our 3 days in the Tonquin Valley!

Well deserved rest at Chrome Lake, after hiking for hours through rain, snow and a thunder storm.

Well deserved rest at Chrome Lake, after hiking for hours through rain, snow and a thunder storm. Tonquin Valley trail, Jasper National Park

Tonquin Valley map, Jasper National Park

Tonquin Valley map, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada. Map from Alpine Club of Canada.

Crossing the plains of stunning Eremite valley.

Crossing the plains of stunning Eremite valley.. Tonquin Valley trail, Jasper National Park

Afternoon coffee!

Afternoon coffee at the Wates-Gibson Hut Hut! Tonquin Valley trail, Jasper National Park

Wates-Gibson Hut Hut!

The cosy and comfortable Wates-Gibson Hut Hut in the Eremite valley! Tonquin Valley trail, Jasper National Park

Lunch at Amethyst Lake!

Lunch at Amethyst Lake. Tonquin Valley trail, Jasper National Park

Eremite Valley. Jasper National Park.

Eremite Valley. Tonquin Valley trail, Jasper National Park

Wildfire haze spills over the Ramparts Range in the morning light.

Wildfire haze spills over the Ramparts Range in the morning light. Tonquin Valley trail, Jasper National Park

Wildfire haze spills over the Ramparts Range in the morning light.

Wildfire haze spills over the Ramparts Range in the morning light. So we continue our Tonquin Valley trail, Jasper National Park

Selfie!

The Ramparts Range, Jasper National Park


On the next update we will take you on our 5 day trek on the 80km loop over the Brazeau Plateau. The “grand tour” of the southern ranges, this circuit includes one of the park’s largest backcountry lakes, two passes and an extraordinary alpine traverse with glaciated peaks, lush wildflowers and a variety of wildlife.

Nap timezzzzzz!

Nap timezzzzzz, Brazeau Plateau, Jasper National Park

Advertisement

It’s oh so quiet!

You’re right. Blogging has been at low ebb over here. It’s part rat racing, part lazyness and part other pursuits. Such as writing for printed magazines, both in English and Dutch.

Offline writings... Sidetracked and Op Pad.

Offline writings… Sidetracked and Op Pad.

I’ m quite proud being invited  to contribute to the first printed edition of the inspiring Sidetracked adventure e-zine.

This brand new magazine swirls around the world, across land, sea and air. It takes us underground, underwater, and soaring high up into the sky. Extraordinary men and women head to the very ends of the Earth in search of inspiration and their own limits. And Sidetracked brings their stories home to us, curated in these beautiful pages. –  Al Humphreys

Please order your copy over here.

Sidetracked volume one

Sidetracked volume one

Closer to home I’ve also been published in the low lands major outdoor magazine Op Pad, which has 130.000 printed subsribers. It’s available on most newsstands in both Holland and Belgium during May 2014.

Op Pad - the great himalaya trail

Op Pad – the great himalaya trail

In both magazines I’ve been writing the article and providing photos about our traverse of the Nepal Himalaya along the Great Himalaya Trail, back in the fall of 2012. It has been a rollercoaster of trial and error with editors of both magazines to get things finalised. It has been a steep learning curve to get things professionaly printed on paper, but I’m very happy with both results, so I hope there’s more to come.

And have you been out there or are you completely pale from screen gazing?

Well it hasn’t been a spectacular outdoor past half year since the gap year, but we get out from time to time on micro-adventures of trailrunning, hiking and paddling close to home. Dreamers on lower clouds, but dreamers nevertheless.

 

Packrafing the Lesse. Belgian Ardennes. March 2014.

Packrafing the Lesse. Belgian Ardennes. March 2014.

 

Across Sarek. Swedish Lappland. April 2014. #moreonthenextblogupdate

Across Sarek. Swedish Lappland. April 2014. #moreonthenextblogupdate